Site Visit

January 8, 2013

Today we all left for a 10 day trip to visit our sites. The first order of business was to travel to Mamou in south central Guinea to meet our local counterparts and do some training together.  A counterpart, or homologue as we call them in Guinea, is a leader in the community who is responsible not only for partnering with the volunteer on their projects, but also with guiding their assigned volunteer through the cultural maze of Guinean language and customs.  Thus, it is very important that we have a good relationship with our counterpart, as each half is very dependent on the other. Part of forming this relationship began with setting ground rules and expectations for working together.

Then, we were off to our sites.  For the most part, volunteers traveled with their counterparts in Guinean taxis.  And there is no first class on these taxis.  Think coach, only worse.  Very little wiggle room makes for sore legs, backs and necks. For those who have never been to a third world country before, the quality of the roads can be awful as well.  Not only does the driver have to dodge potholes in the asphalt (if there is any), but also create detours around fallen trees or other obstacles. 

 

Thankfully, the group that was posted to the Koundara region of Guinea had the luxury of traveling in a Peace Corps 4 wheel drive SUV, so we made it to our sites in 10 hours.  The Koundara region is being re-populated with volunteers after many years of absence.  Thus my site, along with 4 others, had to be personally inspected by Yama, our Safety and Security Coordinator.

 Visiting our sites tended to divide the PCT into two groups: 

Yes, I have electricity!  (for a few lucky individuals)

and

I am so glad I purchased a solar charger!

Actually, we all are well aware that life in Guinea is very third world, and we did not expect many, if any, luxuries at our sites.  In many ways,

LIVING IN A HUT… IN A VILLAGE OF LESS THAN 100 HUMANS (BABIES AND SMALL CHILDREN INCLUDED) WITH NO ELECTRICITY…  OR RUNNING WATER…  IN THE BUSH… WITH FREE RANGE LIVESTOCK ROAMING THE LAND

is somewhat refreshing.  Gone are the distractions (loud noises, police sirens) and inconveniences (finding a parking space, traffic) of big city life.  Instead, the biggest inconvenience I have is being limited to a weekly market 7 kilometers away, and which also lacks the diversity that I was accustomed to in the States. I suppose if I get really hungry, I just have to pull out a shotgun and shoot.  I am bound to hit something edible (cow, goat, sheep, chicken, bird, donkey, mango).

(No, I did not bring a shotgun… it wouldn’t fit in my luggage!)

What followed in the next four days at my site has hopefully set the tone for the next 2+ years of my life in Guinea.  (With a few exceptions, I hope)  I (think) I met every single important person in my village and “county”, and listened as they spoke about me in a language I didn’t understand.  (That is always so comfortable… nodding and shaking your head whenever the speaker pauses to catch a breath!)  In addition, I shared a meal with the Sous-Prefet not less than three times. (The Sous Prefet is the highest appointed government official in the area and his approval or disapproval will greatly influence the success of my projects.)  In addition, I met with the local agriculture cooperatives in the area, gave a couple of impromptu speeches in French, visited the various dry season gardens (that contained almost exclusively onions), toured the bush surrounding my village, discussed potential projects with my counterpart and local agricultural extension agent, visited my counterpart’s apiary, was chased and stung by aggressive honeybees, and finally I hit my head on my hobbit hut which necessitated a trip to the hospital to get four stitches (and scared the beejeezes out my local village with all of the blood that I lost). 

Overall, my visit was very productive and I was happy that my counterpart and village appear to be motivated and open to change.  With my site visit complete, I traveled with my fellow PCTs to the regional PC house in Boké for a couple days of rest. (Two other regional houses are located in Labé and Kankan, and serve the volunteers in the Fouta and Haute regions.)  During our service, we are allotted 1 visit per month to our regional capital to collect our monthly salary, pick up any mail, and relax in relative luxury for rejuvenation.  (Showers, electricity and other English speaking humans make the regional Peace Corps houses a magnet for volunteers to chill.)  However, the trip from Koundara to Boké takes 8 hours on a good day, so I am sure there will be many months when I’ll just decide to stay in my village instead (or visit my fellow PCV’s in the region.)